Understanding Fragrance Concentrations: From Eau Fraîche to Extrait
You're standing in a fragrance boutique, holding two bottles of the same scent. One says Eau de Toilette. The other says Parfum. They smell similar, but one costs twice as much. What's the difference?
Those little words beneath the perfume name aren't just French flair. They tell you how strong the scent is, how long it'll last, and how it'll behave on your skin throughout the day. Understanding them means you'll stop buying the wrong concentration for what you actually need.
Here's what each one really means.
Eau Fraîche (1–3%)
The lightest and most refreshing
Eau Fraîche translates to "fresh water," and that's basically what it is. Only 1–3% perfume oils, mostly mixed with water instead of alcohol. It's barely there, and that's the point.
Longevity: About an hour
Sillage: Skin-close, almost invisible
Ideal for: Hot climates, post-workout freshening up, sensitive skin
The high water content makes it gentler than alcohol-based fragrances. Think of it as scented mist, not perfume. Perfect for humid days when anything heavier would feel suffocating.
Aftershave (up to 3%)
Functional, soothing, lightly scented
Aftershave isn't just for calming razor burn. It typically contains up to 3% perfume oil, so it actually scents your skin while doing its job.
Longevity: 2–3 hours
Purpose: Combines fragrance with antiseptic and soothing ingredients
Ideal for: Daily grooming, layering under stronger scents
Some luxury brands release aftershave versions of their core fragrances with softer profiles. It's a sneaky way to layer scent without overdoing it.
Eau de Cologne (2–5%)
A heritage scent style with vibrant freshness
Originally created in 18th-century Cologne, Germany, Eau de Cologne is all about bright, zesty freshness. Citrus, neroli, aromatic herbs. It's light, clean, and unapologetically refreshing.
Longevity: 2–3 hours
Projection: Light, but you can reapply as much as you want
Best for: Daytime, summer, full-body application
Fragrance profile: Bright, clean, often unisex
Here's the thing: "cologne" has become gendered marketing in some places, but true Eau de Cologne just refers to the concentration. It's not inherently masculine.
Eau de Toilette (8–12%)
The everyday balance of freshness and presence
This is probably what most people wear daily. With 8–12% perfume oil, Eau de Toilette hits the sweet spot between noticeable and not overwhelming.
Longevity: 3–4 hours
Projection: Moderate
Ideal for: Work, casual outings, everyday wear
Scent development: Emphasizes the brighter top and heart notes
EDT versions of a scent often feel lighter and airier than the EDP version of the same fragrance. Same DNA, different vibe.
Eau de Parfum (15–25%)
A step up in richness, projection, and longevity
With 15–25% perfume oil, Eau de Parfum is where things get serious. Richer, longer-lasting, more complex as it develops on your skin.
Longevity: 4–8 hours
Projection: Noticeable without being aggressive
Ideal for: Evening wear, signature scents, when you want presence
Fragrance evolution: The deeper heart and base notes really shine here
Pro tip: Moisturized or naturally oily skin helps EDP last longer. Dry skin makes it evaporate faster, so layer on some unscented lotion first.
Extrait de Parfum / Parfum (25–40%)
The most intense and luxurious expression of scent
This is the top tier. Extrait de Parfum (also just called Parfum) contains 25–40% perfume oil, sometimes even more. These are potent, luxurious, and reveal themselves slowly over many hours.
Longevity: 8–12+ hours
Projection: Often soft and intimate, despite the intensity
Ideal for: Special occasions, cold weather, close encounters
Counterintuitively, Extraits can have softer projection than EDPs. They're designed to stay close to the skin, evolving over time rather than announcing your entrance. The lower alcohol content also makes them gentler on sensitive skin.
The price reflects the craftsmanship. Many of the natural oils used in Extraits are rare and expensive.
Why Concentration Isn't Everything
Here's where it gets interesting. Concentration matters, but it's not the only thing that determines how long a scent lasts.
Molecular weight: Citrus evaporates fast no matter the concentration. Oud and musk linger because their molecules are heavier.
Your skin chemistry: Warm skin intensifies scent. Acidic pH can distort it. Everyone's different.
Note composition: An Extrait heavy on fleeting florals might fade faster than an Eau de Cologne built on woody base notes.
So while Extrait usually lasts longer, it's not a guarantee. The formula matters as much as the percentage.
Choosing the Right Concentration for You
| Concentration | Perfume Oil | Lasts For | Best Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Eau Fraîche | 1–3% | ~1 hour | Quick refresh, hot days |
| Aftershave | ≤3% | 2–3 hours | Post-shave, layering |
| Eau de Cologne | 2–5% | ~2–3 hours | Summer, full-body splash |
| Eau de Toilette | 8–12% | ~3–4 hours | Daily wear, work-safe |
| Eau de Parfum | 15–25% | ~4–8 hours | Signature scents, evening |
| Parfum/Extrait | 25–40% | 8–12+ hours | Special events, longwear |
Final Word
A perfume's concentration doesn't just affect longevity. It shapes how the scent unfolds, how often you need to reapply, and how intimately it stays with you. Whether you want an airy veil or a bold signature, understanding these levels helps you wear your scent with actual intention.
Now you know why that second bottle costs more. And whether it's worth it.
